"What Would Muirenn Do" surrounded by a vining floral pattern, inspired by 15th century manuscript borders.

Creating Muirenn’s Look

I was told once that when the Order of the Fleur was discussing me, there was some consternation by some members, because no one knew who I was. I’m rather quiet, the work I do doesn’t tend to be super visible to Orders, and although everyone knows I spin fine, well, I make thread.. that’s not exactly new or novel work, and I’m a good spinner, but not award winning. A friend referred to me as “the girl in the spectacles” and all of a sudden lightbulbs clicked. People may not know what I do, but they know what I look like. (I was granted admittance to the Fleur (my thanks to Their Grace’s Tindal & Etain for that elevation) and was the third inducted into the Order of the Golden Mirror for looking like I stepped out of a manuscript, for which I thank Their Grace’s Gareth & Juliana), so do not take the above comment as any complaint about the order or it’s processes, I make my own choices).

Since about the time I moved to Aethelmearc in the early 2000s, pushing for an authentic look has always been my driving desire, but I also do not sew, or at least do not sew well… This is a complicated position for a woman to be in. So over time, I learned to balance a skill for research and a love of shopping… Now, lots of people are good at shopping, but the research has always been the part people ask questions about, knowing what I was looking for is the key goal. This post will walk through how I built Muirenn’s look, and there will be a future post about finding trustworthy sources for authentic clothing and accessories. (I was going to include the shopping in this, but it got LONG).

  • Key Decisions you have to make first.
    • Where?
      • There was never a question of where my persona would be from. I come from a fairly typical Irish-American family on the East Coast, but in a less typical way, I worked 3 jobs in high school to fund my first trip over at 17 (a tour of the archaeological sites of Western Ireland), and then went back, to spend my junior year in undergrad at University College Cork studying Early Medieval Irish Archaeology, Literature & History. This decision was super easy.
    • When?
      • I won’t lie, I always wanted to do Tudor, but my first husband wanted to do classic “14th Century Mafia” and as a result we sort of found a middle ground a little further into the 14th and 15th century cusp to allow me some of the shapes I wanted, but give him the freedom to do his era as well. For my ease of mental math, I decided that Muirenn and I were born 600 years apart – so I always know what year it is in her timeline, because I’m a nerd.
        • As an aside – I will have that late period some day.. I have an alternate 16th century Italian persona under construction, but her kit is nowhere near complete, so she hasn’t really made an appearance.. (note to self – future post about doing this process with Domenica!) She’s inspired by
    • What class?
      • I have no desire to play a noble generally, my family were dairy farmers, or they were soldiers (often both in the same life). So I am fascinated by finding what I can about working and the emerging merchant class women of the 15th century. Nobles are great (and easier, and some of them are personal heroes) but, they are not the women whose lives fascinate me, generally. I do like having the ability to Dress Up, but in general, Muirenn is a merchant’s daughter and widow.
  • Manuscript Inspirations
    • With the big decisions made it was time to find sources. For the record, this makes it sound like I went through this process at 23, I did not, the answers and questions and understanding of their role has come in the intervening twenty-*cough* years. Luckily for you, the sources that it took me decades to find and collect are all right here for you!
    • I got lucky and came across 2 particular sources that have been incredibly useful, The Luttrell Psalter (there are some pictures being included here, but sadly it does not have a digitized version on the British Library site anymore, because some fucking jackwad hackers decided that the research community needed to lose access to it so they could make some money.. I have opinions.). The second was the Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, which IS accessible.
    • Clothing Inspiration
      • Luttrell Psalter – as a note, Luttrell was created in 1340, but remember that *peasant* clothing changes very little between the 14th and 15th centuries. So when dressing “down” – I will often turn to Luttrell for the look, since an early 15th century peasant isn’t going to look that different than a mid-14th century peasant.
        • I could crop out the two men with the sheep, but I do love sheep, so they get to stay, but the key reference here are the two women walking away from the corral.
          • To the right, two peasant women, one carrying a basket and the other a jug on her head.. To the left a waddle enclosure with sheep and 2 peasant men either slaughtering or caring for them, I can't quite tell.
        • The reality is that women often did very physical work if there was physical work to be done, and the Luttrell Psalter, unlike some manuscripts, doesn’t run away from that.
          • To the right, two peasant women manually scythe a grain field.  To the left, a single peasant man collects the grain in bundles.
        • Shocking no one, this is my favorite of the Luttrell Psalter images, and although I split it into two for viewing sanity, I had to include the full image.
          • Woman in purple dress with apron spinning on an early spinning wheel.
          • Woman in a beige dress with purple undersleeves cars fleece in preparation of it being spun.
      • Trés Riches Heures du Duc de Berry – the Trés Riches Heures is a 200 page book of hours from the early 15th century. The art is beautiful and again it covers a broader range of individuals than just the nobles, though there are a few individuals not in peasant settings who are wearing neither tippets or surcoats.
    • Accessories
      • Belt
        • The Colman hoard is a mid 14th century find from France, and is where I went for my belt choices. Again, Muirenn is not poor so she can afford a decorated belt, but neither is she wealthy, so her wearing things that she would have inherited from her mother (or grandmother, or an aunt), particularly with expensive metal decorations, is entirely appropriate.
          • Although I had mine built with pewter on leather, I aimed for every bit of the bling associated with this.
          • a red fabric belt with silver medallions, and a belt buckle visible.
        • Obviously when I’m dressing down I stick to a simple apron with smocking along the top, which is very similar to the first image above, only in white linen.
          • An argument could be made that she and the spinner have embroidery along the top of their aprons, however I see smocking in the first image, and either a more nuance smocking or smocking on the top and bottom with embroidery between for the spinner. The art style is very similar to that used when creating the wavy edges associated with ruffled veils, and they have a similar shape.
      • Spectacles
        • Oh come on, I’m the girl with the spectacles, these will get their own post. 🙂
        • a pair of broken, bone spectacles.

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